Ford Tractor Model Number

[Don Grillo]

Does anybody (maybe some long time members) know what model the Ford tractor is?  I’ve been trying to find a new muffler and muffler pipe for it but without the model and serial number, it’s a bit difficult.  If anybody goes out to the hanger this week would you look and see if you can see a number on the transmission case, left side, behind the starter.

P.S. John D…the number we found is not a model number (41N)

[Don Grillo]

This should be the location of the number.

[John Phelan]

Don,

The tractor Owner’s Manual/Service Book is in the file cabinet in the office. I may have some info at home that would tell us the Model #. I’ll have to take a look when I get home tonight.

Best Regards,

John F. Phelan

[Don Grillo]

Great!! That should have the info that we need to order the correct parts.  If anyone is out at the hanger this week could you look for the manual and make note of the model and serial number and post it here.

[John Phelan]

Don,

Nothing at home. Sorry.

Best Regards,

John F. Phelan

From: phelanjf@gmail.com [mailto:phelanjf@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 16:04
To: skysoaring2018+usc_KzWyrEkzMTIwrCkwNbe0rCkBkQA=@gmail.com
Subject: RE: [Sky Soaring] New topic: Ford Tractor Model Number

Don,

The tractor Owner’s Manual/Service Book is in the file cabinet in the office. I may have some info at home that would tell us the Model #. I’ll have to take a look when I get home tonight.

Best Regards,

John F. Phelan

[Richard Bell]

The model number is NAA

It was manufactured in 1953

I have a lot of information on the Ford, collected when I was head of the grounds committee.

Also, many years ago, I made a detailed, enclosed in a plastic folder, that was originally hung on the wall next to the Ford. It included color photos with arrows pointing to where every thing was, and how to maintain the tractor.

I understand it disappeared a long time ago. Possibly in the office.

Dick Bell

oztotw@aol.com

 

[Richard Bell]

Don,

You might try B&K just down the road, (North), from the field. Bob has a lot of knowledge about those things, and he has worked a lot on various things for SSI in the past.

Thanks,

Dick Bell

[Don Grillo]

Thank you Dick Bell, John Phelan and Andy.  I will look for the manuals in the office. Thank you Andy for sending me the parts manual.  I believe this is what we need so, I will do some online shopping.  Next step is to get the BOD to approve the purchase of the parts. 🙂

[Don Grillo]

The Ford Tractor started acting up recently where as soon as you put a load on it, like engaging the mower deck and start mowing, the tractor would bogg down and want to die.  We have cleaned the fuel bowl and screen, blown out the fuel line and checked the points.

Does anyone have an Adjustable Spark Gap Tester?  If so, would you bring it out to the field.

Some things to check first are;
Mower deck. Is the underside clean or clogged with grass? Are the spindles lubed? Do the blades turn freely?

Engine;
Spark Plugs and gap. Are they set correctly?
Fuel. With the bolt in the carb bowl removed and the gas on, will the fuel flow fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

Governor linkage. Check to see if it is properly set.

I’ll be out there later this morning (Thursday the 20th) to troubleshoot.

 

[Anonymous]

Disconnect the mower drive shaft from the tractor then hand turn the mower PTO shaft to see if there is a problem with the mower deck like a failed barring or other locked up part. If it’s not the mower deck then it’s on the tractor side of the powertrain. I guessing it’s the mower deck.

Greg Palmer

847-922-1234

gregbpalmer@comcast.net

[Don Grillo]

I cleaned the mower deck and lubed the spindles, checked the gear oil, and made sure the blades were spinning freely. None of that fixed the problem of the engine bogging down under load.  Did a little more trouble shooting and found out that if you open the fuel valve 5 turns, the tractor runs fine without bogging down.  So, the problem seems to be in the fuel valve. The manual says it should be open 2 turns to use the main tank fuel and all the way open to use the reserve. I’m thinking that the main tank line is clogged.  In order to remove the fuel valve for checking and cleaning, the tank will have to be drained of fuel.

[Dennis Burke]

That main line clog is probably it. Sounds like fuel valves are independent
from the Carb system, so carb/float/jet assembly is ok??
PS: I also noticed after I mowed Fri w/ hustler, the 0-turn belt drive
guards must be opened and clean that upper deck mechanical area. There was
all sorts of debris, dirt, mud,weeds etc., stuck there, waiting to mess up
the belts/pulleys.
What i did not know how to do was effective “clear” of the blade deck
underside. The blades might be choked with debris, too.

On Sun, Jun 23, 2019, 10:34 AM Sky Soaring

[Anonymous]

Anyone planning on working on anything or any activity at the field today (Sunday)?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

[Don Grillo]

Ford N tractor Fuel Sediment bowl and Valve

Here is a link to a detailed blog showing the N series tractor fuel sediment bowl, how it works and how to repair it.

[Richard Bell]

Hi Don,

I work numerious times, in the past, on the fuel valve.

I found that if I tightened the glass bowl too much to the gasket, it sometimes shut off or restricted the fuel flow. Don’t ask me how. Anyway, you might try loosening it a bit.

Thanks, Dick Bell

[Author]

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